Four Days in Granada, Spain

For many travelers, Granada is a pilgrimage. Famed for the moorish legacy at the Alhambra complex. The road to Granada is a well-worn tourist path. At least 4 languages were being spoken on the bus: Spanish, French, English, German, and a Chinese dialect (not sure which).

The gray, drizzly day made for a scene with dramatic clouds and vibrant green landscapes. In this area, it seems every little town has a little castle on a hill, or golden stone edifices and prominent walls. I think it would be fun to rent a car and explore the area, stopping in all the small towns.

Granada’s atmosphere hangs with a magical feeling. Ancient cobblestone streets, an imposing Alhambra on the hill, jumbles of colorful shops and cafes… It was extra special for me as I was able to procure a fantastic apartment near the river in the old part of town.

Due to a combination of factors, I decided to splurge and not stay in another hostel. I needed a rest day, I needed to eat real food, having access to laundry was really convenient, AND I scored a discount, in part being that the rental is from Sunday through Wednesday.

The apartment was easy to find from the bus station. Despite the property telling me to take a taxi, bus 33 was right outside the door of the station when I stepped out. Tickets were only 1.50, so I jumped on board with the other tourists. I exited (with all the other tourists) at Plaza Nueva, which is the heart of town between the Alhambra, the old Arab neighborhood, centro, and my apartment. It wasn’t a long walk from there, despite the rain and dodging tourists.

Albacin and the Old Town

It was a pretty and charming street, completely setting the mood for the visit. An old cobblestone road running along the river below the hill of the palace complex. Sounds of running water and birds chirping from the brilliant green spring shoots bursting from the trees.

along the river in granada — My apartment was down this cobblestone street, next to the river in old town.

After settling into my new digs, I procured some detergent from a little tienda (so glad it was open on a Sunday), and started a load. Everything was soaked, and I was down to my last pair of clean socks.

My one bedroom apartment in Granada. Very modern and cozy. Featuring laundry!

Then I wandered the streets, despite wanting to sit down and relax. There are warnings about druggings in the old, narrow streets of the Arab neighborhood, but I went there anyway. Just too interesting to pass up. I wandered around the hills, taking photos with my iPhone. It was quiet, being a drizzly Sunday evening. From several overlooks (miradors) it was easy to see the love for Granada.

Hilly, expansive, winding and narrow. Old, stone, green tree shoots. Mystery. Charm. History. Romance. And seedy… on one of the streets on the way back (maybe it was Elvira) was full of Arab-owned tourist shops, hookah places, and kabab shops. Walls were crumbling, dirty, full or graffiti. Men in harem pants and man buns walked around with women in dreadlocks. Uggh. The place tainted my impression of the city. Happily, I took photos of the street art painted on brick and stone.

Lots of Arabic is spoken here. Although the Muslims were kicked out at a point about three centuries ago, they have reclaimed this place in cafes, souvenir shops, teaterias, hammams, doner restaurants, and other means I am not exposed to. A man in a Mercedes blasting Arabic music drives by. Women in hijabs visit the Alhambra and are visible in the streets below.

My hands are cold. I wanted until 11 to leave—when the temperature had finally risen to 40 degrees F. I like this city. It’s an interesting mix of old and new, cultures, and tastes. The layout meanders, dictated by the hills and valleys enforcing the lack of symmetry. The Alhambra prominent at the top, two intersecting rivers defining the heart. Contemporary areas of the city are defined by tall buildings and a grid layout. The old section, where I am centered, is green sprinkled amidst a tangle of narrow streets.

View of the Alhambra from the hillside Albacin neighborhood.

The Alhambra Complex

If you are planning the Alhambra, be sure to purchase your tickets in advance. Thanks to the advice of a fellow traveler, I rearranged my itinerary because upon searching, all the tickets were sold out for the dates I had originally planned to visit. The Dobla De Oro was the only option available. Although more expensive it was a great option because it included other historic houses and sites in the area.

The walk up to the palace complex is steep. The path through the bosque de Alhambra is a peaceful forest of leafy green canopy. Surprisingly, the entrance is not a crowded nightmare, probably due to the scheduled ticketing.

Access to the gardens was quick, and I took my time to wander and explore so I could be familiar with the location of the buildings I wanted to visit the next day.

On the way out, I walked down the Questa del Rey Chico path. It is easy to imagine knights, and beggars, and horses and fair maidens making their way up to the castle back in the day.